18, April 2017
"The Ocean, She is Arrogant"
Words of advice given to me while visiting a beach town during three days off. Yes, I heeded his words. But I did (accidentally) join a Saturday morning exercise group. I was partnered up with stout Florence, the town tailor. And it was quite an extraordinary cultural event, overly vigorous duo stretching routines, ab workout on sandy pebbled concrete street, tailbone blisters still tender. Sore chest wall muscles all week after. Serious back slapping at the end (like a massage, for us?), Florence kept repeating loudly "you no fine, you no fine!" Until I upgraded my enthusiasm level, (painful hands after), and it was worth it when she changed her tune..."you fine now"! While she was face down in the street , and me on my knees!
They were surprised at me, noting...."but you old lady!"
Tsifirana and Dahlia, long term volunteers from Madagascar, joined me that same weekend at our lovely guest house in Grand Popoo.
They are thrilled with this MERCYSHIP golden opportunity for work/travel and sharing a life of this spiritual-cultural mix. One gal is in education, the other in the galley. Both of them pay greatly reduced crew fees, since they are from an African country. Both originally worked with Mercy last year, when ship was docked in Madagascar. They are two of the lucky ones that were offered long term positions living aboard.
White peoples here are called "yovo " simple translation. Kids follow behind and call "yovo yovo!" for attention, if you turn and smile, they run off giggling.
At the most recent vision celebration, kids and adults gave their testimonials, one kid...."now I can see and can go to school!"
I joined one day of another education seminar, off ship. And as usual, the program was .....teaching the teachers......"the check list", increasing safe surgery practices, a UN organized global movement.
Any hospital,anywhere, will be/should be familiar with this important safety tool.
At a local TED-X event here last month, I managed to talk my way in, sat exhausted, three blissful a/con hours. All in French, no matter, fun and enthusiastic, the MercyTeam still had not had their turn on stage when I had to return to the ship. The theme was "youth". That is all I know.
Lots of western youth on board, many seem to be on a "quest" for that perfect partner. Apparently this is "the love ship" my friend Tsiferana calls it. Seems to be a Mercy marriage each season! With some life changing moments/events here, that makes for good bonding.
"Mercy Hips" is another common fondness, compliments to the galley crew!
Visited "Songhai" agricultural program, ZERO WASTE, and it has a lot to teach us all......an excellent grass-routes NGO, sustainable healthy agricultural/sustainable farming communities. Organic, local, offers education events, recycles, resells, repurposes, creates jobs, builds all their own farm machinery, all their own everything, reuses rain water/ag water/grey water, uses waste collection (poultry/aquatic/human) for methane power.
The ship does not, as in ZERO, recycling, nothing in place in this city to deal with it. In Madagascar, there was one (long term volunteer) person on the ship that took the initiative to find the proper place for recyclables, as well as a place to take food scrapes for composting. Madagascar is way ahead of the the world trash curve.
I gave up my usual trashy concerns during my second week here. There ARE trash heaps somewhere, and trash pickers make some sort of (miserable)living at it.
"The Ocean, She is Arrogant"
Words of advice given to me while visiting a beach town during three days off. Yes, I heeded his words. But I did (accidentally) join a Saturday morning exercise group. I was partnered up with stout Florence, the town tailor. And it was quite an extraordinary cultural event, overly vigorous duo stretching routines, ab workout on sandy pebbled concrete street, tailbone blisters still tender. Sore chest wall muscles all week after. Serious back slapping at the end (like a massage, for us?), Florence kept repeating loudly "you no fine, you no fine!" Until I upgraded my enthusiasm level, (painful hands after), and it was worth it when she changed her tune..."you fine now"! While she was face down in the street , and me on my knees!
They were surprised at me, noting...."but you old lady!"
Tsifirana and Dahlia, long term volunteers from Madagascar, joined me that same weekend at our lovely guest house in Grand Popoo.
They are thrilled with this MERCYSHIP golden opportunity for work/travel and sharing a life of this spiritual-cultural mix. One gal is in education, the other in the galley. Both of them pay greatly reduced crew fees, since they are from an African country. Both originally worked with Mercy last year, when ship was docked in Madagascar. They are two of the lucky ones that were offered long term positions living aboard.
White peoples here are called "yovo " simple translation. Kids follow behind and call "yovo yovo!" for attention, if you turn and smile, they run off giggling.
At the most recent vision celebration, kids and adults gave their testimonials, one kid...."now I can see and can go to school!"
I joined one day of another education seminar, off ship. And as usual, the program was .....teaching the teachers......"the check list", increasing safe surgery practices, a UN organized global movement.
Any hospital,anywhere, will be/should be familiar with this important safety tool.
At a local TED-X event here last month, I managed to talk my way in, sat exhausted, three blissful a/con hours. All in French, no matter, fun and enthusiastic, the MercyTeam still had not had their turn on stage when I had to return to the ship. The theme was "youth". That is all I know.
Lots of western youth on board, many seem to be on a "quest" for that perfect partner. Apparently this is "the love ship" my friend Tsiferana calls it. Seems to be a Mercy marriage each season! With some life changing moments/events here, that makes for good bonding.
"Mercy Hips" is another common fondness, compliments to the galley crew!
Visited "Songhai" agricultural program, ZERO WASTE, and it has a lot to teach us all......an excellent grass-routes NGO, sustainable healthy agricultural/sustainable farming communities. Organic, local, offers education events, recycles, resells, repurposes, creates jobs, builds all their own farm machinery, all their own everything, reuses rain water/ag water/grey water, uses waste collection (poultry/aquatic/human) for methane power.
The ship does not, as in ZERO, recycling, nothing in place in this city to deal with it. In Madagascar, there was one (long term volunteer) person on the ship that took the initiative to find the proper place for recyclables, as well as a place to take food scrapes for composting. Madagascar is way ahead of the the world trash curve.
I gave up my usual trashy concerns during my second week here. There ARE trash heaps somewhere, and trash pickers make some sort of (miserable)living at it.
I heard on the local news recently that one of those unofficial trSh heaps had exploded, with tragic loss of life......with no regulation, no system....... anything and everything goes into waste piles, including toxic and potentially explosive combinations of trash.
Week one, gave up my plans to learn a bit of French. During my third week here, I gave up on the enthusiastic idea of extending my stay, or coming back in the future. The reality is , this place is harsh. While ship life does give a lot, and it also takes a lot.
Energy, emotions, etc, yes, they do balance out here, and much more on the positive side, this is good food for the soul....even if those words may sound a bit trite.
One of the frequent concerns that I hear about..... The education system here does not teach critical thinking. Nor creative problem solving. Common in the third world.
In the classes presented to local nurses and doctors, at least the ones I saw, like emergency trauma care, and advanced neonatal care.....it seems a hard concept to get across, creative thinking, one that we all take for granted......when you have a deteriorating medical situation...call for extra members to assist, improvise, move fast, move out of your familiar comfort zone, step a tiny bit out of your usual boundary, if needed. Well, that last one they don't actually teach, but imply. Of course there's so much lost to us in translation (cultural and linguistic) that it is difficult to clearly understand what does, and might , actually happen in that local delivery room. But clearly, continuing medical edification does not often happen, nor have they had " hands on" participatory workshops. It is fun to watch them step forward to "practice " with a "resus-a-baby-Annie" and an educator nearby.
Like many third world countries, Benin has "free education", but ......fees for books, tests, uniforms, school supplies, bus fare, are all modest, and still out of reach for many.
Visited "Ouidah", an historic port side museum dedicated to the memory of those countless souls lost to slavery, shipped off from these shores......hallowed ground.
Have been here long enough to start missing new friends, good teammates, as they depart. We have had some jolly times, from off-ship walks and talks, and sharing at the local Italian ice cream shop, and laughing at new phrases "test bunny", (guinea pig?) ......answering food questions..."what is pancake?" That is not so obvious to some nationalities. My Indian friend Aditi commented, "All sweet for breakfast?".
Aditi entertained us with anecdotes of her life in India, her studies in max/fax (facial surgery) advanced studies in Seoul. Her comment to the over-bearing mother of a first-and-onlyintro, (a possible suitable marriage candidate) .....he wanted a gynecologist, mother wanted a daughter in law that would not be outspoken, Aditi turned to the lady in question and responded, "Madame, I am not suitable at all for your son, goodbye!"
This gal Aditi was quite the live-wire, and now prefers to not think about men, "I don't understand what men want!" She has now returned to Delhi. Promises to come to Seattle some day.....
Anya, an anesthesiologist, also single, lives now in London, originally from India, now very Westernized, she has a very spoiled, large dog, and she continually remind us "don't drink the water", would not eat fried street food, nor even go out to enjoy meals off ship at a restaurant.....she says she is too soft now, could never go back home!
Packing my bags this week. My turn to go home. Lots of disembarkment steps/ papers. Exit interview. Take my extra stuff to "The Boutique". It will be bitter sweet to say goodbye to so many good folks.
My young friend Esther , 20 yrs old, is very sad to see me go. I have been a frequent visitor with her at the Hope Center, as well as here at the out patient rehab tent. Her friend and advocate, I am helping sort out what she does not understand about her post op care. Or perhaps, only to help her understand better why her nutritional status and PT (speech therapy) are her responsibility to help herself. And how to live with MRSA chronic infection. The surgeon could only do so much. She is unfortunately one of our patients without a clear improvement. Much improved, yes, but still disfigured. And still may likely keep herself mostly isolated at home with her parents.
Esther and I played with being "brave" three weeks ago. Stepping outside the door of the Hope Center. Walked a bit, sat and drank a cold coke. Normal motor bikes frightened her, and she taped out on her device ..."they are all looking at me". Yes, I agreed with her, and looking at me, the funny looking "yovo,", but yes, mostly looking at you......and most are kind, just curious, so be brave and carry on....
She and I are now working on "finding her voice" , a double meaning in her case, learning to speak-out. Perhaps talk with out her hand near her mouth, so we can hear her easier, and share her thoughts, ask her questions......Her huge facial tumors left some facial nerves weakened, tongue protrudes, hard to chew, speak. With her remaining tumor fragments, saliva control issues, and a lose TMJ (post massive bone removal, graft and titanium restructuring), she hides her mouth behind a cloth, so, it is hard to hear her English words. She is from Nigeria, parents had to stay home, so she is here alone. Speaks good English, mostly I am just her friend, as it must get very old to have so many people always telling her what to do. I am not sure when she will return to her home in Lagos, about a 5 hr bus ride, her father will come to accompany her home, when called.
I enjoy sitting in rehab with her, lots to see. Toddlers walking "the line" (low balance beam), with their (club) feet now pointed forward, correctly!
Week one, gave up my plans to learn a bit of French. During my third week here, I gave up on the enthusiastic idea of extending my stay, or coming back in the future. The reality is , this place is harsh. While ship life does give a lot, and it also takes a lot.
Energy, emotions, etc, yes, they do balance out here, and much more on the positive side, this is good food for the soul....even if those words may sound a bit trite.
One of the frequent concerns that I hear about..... The education system here does not teach critical thinking. Nor creative problem solving. Common in the third world.
In the classes presented to local nurses and doctors, at least the ones I saw, like emergency trauma care, and advanced neonatal care.....it seems a hard concept to get across, creative thinking, one that we all take for granted......when you have a deteriorating medical situation...call for extra members to assist, improvise, move fast, move out of your familiar comfort zone, step a tiny bit out of your usual boundary, if needed. Well, that last one they don't actually teach, but imply. Of course there's so much lost to us in translation (cultural and linguistic) that it is difficult to clearly understand what does, and might , actually happen in that local delivery room. But clearly, continuing medical edification does not often happen, nor have they had " hands on" participatory workshops. It is fun to watch them step forward to "practice " with a "resus-a-baby-Annie" and an educator nearby.
Like many third world countries, Benin has "free education", but ......fees for books, tests, uniforms, school supplies, bus fare, are all modest, and still out of reach for many.
Visited "Ouidah", an historic port side museum dedicated to the memory of those countless souls lost to slavery, shipped off from these shores......hallowed ground.
Have been here long enough to start missing new friends, good teammates, as they depart. We have had some jolly times, from off-ship walks and talks, and sharing at the local Italian ice cream shop, and laughing at new phrases "test bunny", (guinea pig?) ......answering food questions..."what is pancake?" That is not so obvious to some nationalities. My Indian friend Aditi commented, "All sweet for breakfast?".
Aditi entertained us with anecdotes of her life in India, her studies in max/fax (facial surgery) advanced studies in Seoul. Her comment to the over-bearing mother of a first-and-onlyintro, (a possible suitable marriage candidate) .....he wanted a gynecologist, mother wanted a daughter in law that would not be outspoken, Aditi turned to the lady in question and responded, "Madame, I am not suitable at all for your son, goodbye!"
This gal Aditi was quite the live-wire, and now prefers to not think about men, "I don't understand what men want!" She has now returned to Delhi. Promises to come to Seattle some day.....
Anya, an anesthesiologist, also single, lives now in London, originally from India, now very Westernized, she has a very spoiled, large dog, and she continually remind us "don't drink the water", would not eat fried street food, nor even go out to enjoy meals off ship at a restaurant.....she says she is too soft now, could never go back home!
Packing my bags this week. My turn to go home. Lots of disembarkment steps/ papers. Exit interview. Take my extra stuff to "The Boutique". It will be bitter sweet to say goodbye to so many good folks.
My young friend Esther , 20 yrs old, is very sad to see me go. I have been a frequent visitor with her at the Hope Center, as well as here at the out patient rehab tent. Her friend and advocate, I am helping sort out what she does not understand about her post op care. Or perhaps, only to help her understand better why her nutritional status and PT (speech therapy) are her responsibility to help herself. And how to live with MRSA chronic infection. The surgeon could only do so much. She is unfortunately one of our patients without a clear improvement. Much improved, yes, but still disfigured. And still may likely keep herself mostly isolated at home with her parents.
Esther and I played with being "brave" three weeks ago. Stepping outside the door of the Hope Center. Walked a bit, sat and drank a cold coke. Normal motor bikes frightened her, and she taped out on her device ..."they are all looking at me". Yes, I agreed with her, and looking at me, the funny looking "yovo,", but yes, mostly looking at you......and most are kind, just curious, so be brave and carry on....
She and I are now working on "finding her voice" , a double meaning in her case, learning to speak-out. Perhaps talk with out her hand near her mouth, so we can hear her easier, and share her thoughts, ask her questions......Her huge facial tumors left some facial nerves weakened, tongue protrudes, hard to chew, speak. With her remaining tumor fragments, saliva control issues, and a lose TMJ (post massive bone removal, graft and titanium restructuring), she hides her mouth behind a cloth, so, it is hard to hear her English words. She is from Nigeria, parents had to stay home, so she is here alone. Speaks good English, mostly I am just her friend, as it must get very old to have so many people always telling her what to do. I am not sure when she will return to her home in Lagos, about a 5 hr bus ride, her father will come to accompany her home, when called.
I enjoy sitting in rehab with her, lots to see. Toddlers walking "the line" (low balance beam), with their (club) feet now pointed forward, correctly!
Sassy Beatrice is there tossing tennis balls, moving her freed fingers normally (right hand had serious burn contractures, all her fingers had been useless, stuck together with deeply burnt scar tissue, since she was a toddler).
Back outside the rehab tent, say goodbye to Esther, head up the gangway, hot hot hot. Now time to think about packing my bags, I depart next week, April 22.
End of week 4, 29/March/2017
Will someone please remind me to not say "yes" in the future, to invites for home visits! Because it will inevitably grow (as I knew it would) to include many many family and neighborhood introductions, a hundred photo moments (literally), a visit to her church ( that is my new friend), and an official meeting with her pastor, then......repeat same at the missionary school where her kids attend. And all these kind folks gave little gifts to me, so, now, how to I reciprocate? I did have two little stuffed animals for her kids. (thank you Jeanne).
But I can't possible donate to each one......no one asked, they only hinted at their needs,p. All were kind, sincere, gracious, hard working. It is so hard to say, well don't hold your breath..... but I must, so that no one gets hopeful. But, when do I say no?.....when they hand me a tiny gift of extra pens (from the school), or hand me a a church book, or a nutrition product sample(from her sister), yes, be prepared for this eventuality, but of course, I didn't, because I wasn't.
But I can't possible donate to each one......no one asked, they only hinted at their needs,p. All were kind, sincere, gracious, hard working. It is so hard to say, well don't hold your breath..... but I must, so that no one gets hopeful. But, when do I say no?.....when they hand me a tiny gift of extra pens (from the school), or hand me a a church book, or a nutrition product sample(from her sister), yes, be prepared for this eventuality, but of course, I didn't, because I wasn't.
Yesterday I visited Queen in her home, lovely short visit, she played her (borrowed) keyboard and sang for me. It was a tiny cinder block space, maybe 20ftx20ft. Two big dusty suitcases held all their belongings, bed mats were rolled away. Plastic linoleum on floor. Kitchen was hard to recognize. Private water well outside. Did not see nor ask about toilet. Tiny private court yard, rubble all around. As usual, can't tell if a building is going up or coming down. Friendly, quiet and mostly clean neighborhood. No toys were obvious. Pretty lace curtains in the one unglassed window, as well as inside her doorway, to let in the welcome breeze
Queen lives there with her two small kids, and is a hospital translator, as well as nurse's aid. Carries herself as her name suggests. She tells me when she was 20, her father asked her "why don't you bear your name?" Sounds like he was telling her to behave and be proud and.......
Ok, I wrote this below last week, better send it.....because it is now week#5.....
Woke up cussing like a sailor. Does not go over well with these churchy types.
Not a good start to you day off, a very loud alarm at 6 am, and I was actually still asleep, a miracle.....awoke wondering how to get rid of my current (upper) bunk mate, or toss her alarm over aboard, or myself.....but it was a fire drill, had to go to our muster stations, quickly, geez. I still needed to pee. And they have assigned people to check each room/space/office, etc, all 8 decks, all 400ft, to make sure all are safely out.
Excuse me while I whine.
Everything potentially fun happens on my days off, like a fire drill, which could happily be work slow down/ extra break, if I was on duty. Instead , I have to lose sleep and go stand outside for an hour. Smart ones take their yoga pads or devices. And make a a quick stop at the loo.
Ships's holiday, another example of my poor luck.....means a three day weekend, Friday no surgery (long term OR staff needs that once in a while, but short term surgeons want to work 24/7) so a ship's holiday would be "weekend schedule" for ship life, f-s-s , and for dining room crew, that means no lunch service on a F-S-S, thus , each of,our work days is an easier work day. If I was working.
Two ship's' holidays while I am here, and both fall on my long weekend off. So,I get no work break advantage from that. All about me. First world issues. But lots of people walking around are close to tears, I suspect extra sleep would help. This is hard to toughen up to.
Take a day off, go to a market place , see unpleasant things...that is no cure for the weepies. I might just stay abroad for the rest of my time here.
My three day weekend recently was suppose to be fun adventuring. Was partly that, but add heat, humidity, dust, chaos, disorganization.
One of those days I joined a (ship organized) group trip to Adjara, drum making village. As well as voodoo and mask museum, fascinating, from all over West Africa. With a stop at a great village cafe, for roast goat and Manioc(mushed up root of cassava) dipped in spicy tomato sauces,
Eat with your hands, yes they had an ok hand washing sink.
Other staples here are Yams, Pate (corn meal), Cassava leaves stir fried with herbs. Street food fav is Beignets ( sort of donut thing, fried beans and or bananas or wheat flour, wasn't sure which).
Chez Houssou cafe on that organized trip day is well know by anyone using a tourist guide book , i.e. That would be the usual traveler, but not familiar reading for most my ship mates. My "Lonely Planet West Africa" guide to them is an eye opener. One young nurse, with deep family missionary roots in Africa, reminds me of one of the sisters in Kingsolver's "Poison Wood Bible". Can't remember which sister, but trying to be so sure of herself, and knows nothing of the larger world. However, I have to hand it to her, she is here,walking her talk. And she reminded me of Mother Theresa's words, "treat the one in front of you ". When faced with overwhelming needs all around. Good advice for life. One step/thought/deed/activity at a time.
The other part of my long weekend off was spent driving across the border to Togo, suppose to be the "Pearl of W Africa". Well, there is a lovely coastline, and less crowds, but......no thanks, too much car time for me. Not good seat belts......while thinking of a friend that recently had a serious van accident in Mexico, while on holiday, survived, with the help of her good husband, an experienced ER doc. Still it was a near miracle for her.
So I whined and got to change my car seat to have a seat belt that the previous passenger, another crew member, did not want to use.
Then add, to our organized outing, no planning for I & O breaks , an inexperienced tour guide and travel mates that did not want to eat nor drink much, because then one does not have to make (can be awkward or unpleasant) toilet stops. Doesn't work for me, the urine output nazi.
We had an overnighter in Lome, Togo, four of us had hired a driver (no English)plus guide( turned out to be almost no English), who was to take care of all our travel arrangements. Hotel full when we got there, so we were escorted across the street to another, and we three gals got one small room with double bed! Our one guy got same accommodation. We three gals laughed and agreed to toss a coin for the floor.....the staff did eventually find another singe room.
Togo is famous for one particular "fetish" market. It wasn't open, good, I was not going to it anyway, have seen enough of lethargically suffering small mammals and reptiles and chickens that seem to be used for this ancient voodoo culture. They apparently do not kill the animals outright, slowly dehydrating is more appropriate. There are certainly parts of voodoo culture that are fascinating, however.....
Some of this culture is slowly fading......Many early missionaries combined their Christianity with the local cultures....quite colorful!
Ship life is amazing. Yesterday and today were "bunking " days on dockside. New one for me...... Taking on fuel. Old time mariner word:fuel was kept in dockside "bunkers".
The ship PA system announced a temporary stop of all "hot work", during this monthly activity. Not sure what hot work is, someone described it to me, in French, but.....
One evening after work I joined a tour of the "engine room" .
Very demanding hour and half. Another indescribable experience.
Climbed ladders from tip to tail, below water line to above the smoke stacks,exhilarating, plus hot and humid in there, over 100' and 100%.
I learned that all our ship energy needs are generated on board,8 gens to power four diesels.
Medical incinerator for our medical waste. Best filtered water in all of West Africa. Complex system for our black water management, before discharge into port seawater. Plus a special legal dispensation for doing so.
The host country gives up revenue for the ten months the Mercy Africa is dockside, no national income from normal port activity for this 125 m. ship.
Some countries say no thank you to a request from M Ship. The more progressive ones seem to be eager to host, understanding the importance (and current impossibility) of health care access for all. Especially free surgery for complex cases impossible to find local treatment.
Another major program that M Ship initiates, funds, trains, and leaves in place after departure ...... Medical Capacity Building, sustainable development. From bio med techs, to nurse aid training, to free advance practice seminars for local doctors and nurses,proper sterile process techniques for instruments, improved surgery techniques, etc. And follow up is done the following year. hundreds of temporary jobs are created that pay "well" , 6-8$/hr, here in Benin, plus a VERY HUGE plate of food at lunch time from our ship cafeteria.
Back to my engine room tour, learned about dead man alarms, hi tech and non tech engineering systems around the clock, with engineering staff of 45, locals plus internationals.
All male, BUT, recently there was one "wee lass" engineer, for two years she lived aboard, and left more than a "wee" impression on her team mates.
My new dorm mate, Jenn from Australia, and I went topsides to our pool, for a late night swim, after our tour. We had a good laugh after, attempting to be decent as we changed from wet to dry, up top, plenty of surveillance cameras abound,on our ship and other port ships. She said we must look like a "couple of old tarts!" Indeed.....and good to now have three post menopausal gals In my dorm, no longer the "red rent"!
Short stay volunteers (3-12 weeks) get a tiny 6 bed dorm. Four bed dorms are relatively roomy for longer commitments. Double rooms for couples, and all families aboard are long term, they get tiny apartments. MD's and dentists get private room.
This ship houses 300-400 hardy souls, about a quarter are long term. The rest of us seem to come and go ......can be 3 week assignments for critical needs positions, and/or returning volunteer. Usual minimum for non MD, new volunteer, is two months. Many return each year for a one or two month position.
Good food for soul this is. The camaraderie, community, plus teammates who always try to say "yes". A very rich international cultural mix of health care, spiritual life, surrounded by colorful, adventurous third world life. But it is hard to shut it all down at night, sleep is difficult, my room IS quiet, but my head is all a buzz, too much stimulation...so much going on, plus all the up and down emotions...
Volunteers are warned to bring ear plugs, flexibility, good humor, plus a big dose of tolerance!
Last month for International Women's Day, I learned from Mama Joy, a driver, that men cook for their women on that day. However, I have yet to meet one local guy that would admit to doing that!
I put up my two maps in the galley, one of Benin, the other of Africa. I was opening my maps so often, local crew enjoy them and like to point out their history, where they have lived and worked......so I asked the purser if I could put them up in a public area. Fun project. The locals R eager to make int national friendship.
The ship was in Madagascar last two years, as I understand it, the assigned port was delightful, unlike this one, which is industrial. That one was smallish and lovely, used by visiting cruise ships. This is a rough port area, medium sized, as industrial ports go, thus busy.
We are not allowed to walk the one km. to our port gate, so a frequent ship-shuttle-van takes us back and forth. There are a few places Walking distance from our port gate, ice cream shop, hotels with restaurants and (overly warm) swimming pools, a few cafes, Lebanese, fast food, Thai, Indian cuisine. Good food. Not suppose to walk anywhere alone, actually sensible suggestion.
During my recent three days off, I discovered that I can no longer do as much as I want to do, while working 45 hrs/week.....the reality is that off ship outings are a bit demanding, chaotic and bloody hot/muggy/dusty. Imagine that,can't do it all, now, at age 60 something !
So , today enjoying a day doing nothing. Looking to borrow a hammock from Harry's family, if I can find their cabin. Great spots up top, to hang and relax, after dark, outside. Sometimes 48 plus hrs pass and I realize that I have not been outside!
Temps outside , 27C at breakfast time, 37C dinner time.(80's-90'sF).
I seem to have accumulated a few "friends" among the local day crew.
Gosh, starting to get a few requests. Like......Can you arrange for my sister and her husband to be visitors on the ship, and possibly a job on ship as well. Very strict visitor policies here, security is big. (This ship, and its transition crew of 100, would carry a big ransom price, as it rounds the horn, next time it moves to a port on the other side.) Also receiving hints at my iPad; requests for info on scholarships to universities near my home....... Hard to say no. Strict policy here of no gifts, no favors. Ah, but all of the locals are good people, grateful of this ship and their job. Very very gracious.
Well, back to the treatment of animals,worldwide, it is slowing changing for the better. Think about it. Work horses, long ago......And now more human treatment for many work animals. Many poor counties no longer use cats and dogs for food.
Plus the move to purchase food from local farm raised animals, close to home, if one is going to eat meat, animals that have a healthy life, a humane death. As apposed to purchasing meat from a local Safeway. I am referring to the horrible treatment of agricultural/industrial food animals in our modern world. They suffer needlessly. To say nothing of the unhealthy aspects of this type of industrial farming. Just my humble bias.
_______________________________________________________
End of week two, 13/march/2017
End of week two, 13/march/2017
V.V.F. surgery and f/u on Esther
Esther walked out of the hospital yesterday escorted to a care site by ship staff. Dressed in a tidy simple sunshine bright yellow nylon dress, her shy smile just as brilliant . Her misshaped face neck barely unrecognizable as a young woman. Multiple neuro lipomas. Another surgery is scheduled for the future, but she is vastly improved, in terms of access to eating and socializing.
She will stay nearby at the "Hope House", also ran by ship crew, ( paid locals plus volunteers ) for a while, until her wounds and tracheotomy site are healed sufficiently. She'll visit our out-patient clinic a few times as well.
The DRESS Celebration....
Sunday ward services included a beloved and special MercyShip event.
Today three women were being sent home, two weeks, post op gyn surgery. They now had their own traditional "fancy" new dress that had been gifted, it was tailered for each after she choose fabric/style. Enough left over to make the usual elaborate head piece as well. These young/middle age woman all had long standing obstetrical fistulas. Their surgery correction is called a VVF repair.
The three were happy to step outside , toward home, toward a life with no more embarrassing leakage of urine&stool. Some initial cases of O.F. are due to difficult deliveries. Others, the initial leakage can be worsened due to a botched repair attempts.
Their gorgeous dress represents the life they are re-gaining, as well as their new self-respect!
This was the second time I have joined Sunday services in the wards. Up beat time. African dancing ,drumming, singing , all patients that can ambulate with their tubes and lines and attachments. Joined by family, hospital and ship staff, visitors.
Sunday ward services included a beloved and special MercyShip event.
Today three women were being sent home, two weeks, post op gyn surgery. They now had their own traditional "fancy" new dress that had been gifted, it was tailered for each after she choose fabric/style. Enough left over to make the usual elaborate head piece as well. These young/middle age woman all had long standing obstetrical fistulas. Their surgery correction is called a VVF repair.
The three were happy to step outside , toward home, toward a life with no more embarrassing leakage of urine&stool. Some initial cases of O.F. are due to difficult deliveries. Others, the initial leakage can be worsened due to a botched repair attempts.
Their gorgeous dress represents the life they are re-gaining, as well as their new self-respect!
This was the second time I have joined Sunday services in the wards. Up beat time. African dancing ,drumming, singing , all patients that can ambulate with their tubes and lines and attachments. Joined by family, hospital and ship staff, visitors.
This brought smiles and tears to myself as well as many. Plus got my dancing feet a'going. This time especially so, with these three proud women , up front, in places of honor, looking so regale! happy! The three ladies stood up front, for recognition, and the music and song and spirit moved them for a traditional CELEBRATORY song and dance.It did, and they did!
I am still been stunned after encounters with post op kids and adults on the wards, who do not look at all normal, having lived with large ugly lumps and bumps, in unlikely places and shapes. Anomalies, for many many years, usually still growing. After surgery most look more normal, still very swollen and misshapen. But, their smiles are starting to shine! And they still have lots of f/u working ahead.
I suspect they have lived as shunned members of their community, perhaps their family as well.
There is so much I/don't know
Dana Perino , visiting with Fox News, was there at ward service to present a pretty bag of toiletries to each one of the three VVF ladies, useful and sweet items, luxury items, for those who can not afford these basics. One woman said, she never had items like this before, because, they might say...., "well, why waste it on a smelly dirty woman". FRom the ladies, in their testimonials, saying thank you to us,while holding back their tears..
Many of us wept, including Dana Perino and myself. She has been here this week doing a special on Mercy Ship Africa. Has had shows aired live , I think, all week. She will have something on obstetric fistula, Thursday night. She left last evening, came over to hug me and thank me for my work and for being with her when she "cried like a baby".
My sis-in-law Betsy describes Dana as gutsy (or was that gusty?)!. On the ship Dana pointed out the reality behind US foreign aid numbers. They are not as they seem when presented via sound bites. There are many factors involved that neither side wants us to see, let alone understand. That info is out there, we voters just have to do our homework better, to understand the deep complexities in modern world of cultural and political divide. Ok, enough politics, it is good to take this break from that.
Lots of field trips to enjoy here on my time off, arranged by the Ship's Purser, even if I do not have as much free time as I would like, nor as accustomed to in my real life.
Did go to the local Orphanage, now that was something, geez ,had a little kid hanging /swinging on each arm ,two on my lap. They love and crave affection. They wiggled off all my bracelets and earnings and then careful handed all back to me as I was leaving.
Galley work is surprisingly very physical. The work alone is not that difficult, but add it up 5d/wk, long hours each day. Then multiply by lack of sufficient sleep,then x 8 weeks for this crazy thing volunteered for. Plus overall too much going on, and the result is working harder, while on the go. Yes, working more than ever in my life. And don't forget the bazillion steps aboard. Elevators ? No way, this is not the Queen Mary!
Body parts that don't usually complain are doing so now.......feet, knees, low back,and vision challenged, eyeballs funky , but it's all,doable. The highs and lows here similiar ,so many times in all our lives.....
Went to the El Dorado Hotel today, Monday , with ViVi , nurse from Norway.Lovely seaside place, cafe, gardens and pool, long walks on hot beach. Great swimming, this part of the Atlantic is perfect water temp. The cove was waveless, plus safe ocean currents. . We paid for this, not much, maybe 1000afc, about 1.60.
So Vivi and I joined their water/paint celebration! The "HOLI" fest, we were told ???!!! lots of coca cola, loud Hindi music with dancing and spraying water and paint on each other....the name of this Hindu fest, well, I could not understand their charming queen's English, holy something like "holi" !
Friday, my next day off, will join a trip,initiated by other crewmate......about a dozen of us, hired car, with driver as guide I think. To some historic cultural areas, slave trade history, drum making community, and ????
Last week I joined up with a doctor from the UK, last week she needed volunteers for her education class, teaching trauma care to the local doctors. They certainly need it , they seemed to know that they lack it. Very eager students. That was fun , and watching this doctor in education-mode-action, well, that was inspiring. Plus a tour afterwards of the local ER, attached to the teaching university. It was very basic. All staff seemed to be hard working. Family members sleeping two to a bed,on an extra hospital bed. Or on the floor, under the bed of their family/patient.
It Looked better staffed and supplied than most I have seen in the third world. Family members DO have to bring patient food, as well as purchase any needed supplies: meds, catheters ,IV, chest tubes, bulb syringes, syringes.
On our ship we host dignitaries occasionally, Embassy staff from Norway last week, from Germany tomorrow, the Ambassador to the UN.
The Benin First Lady came recently, along with the widow of Nelson Mandela, his second wife, not the infamous first wife.
Graca Machel is an inspiring advocate for women's and children social justice issues, still very active, lives in Mozambique.
The only celebrity that I have actually been on duty to greet was Dana. ANd I have not seen any of her current pieces. I like her, and I hear her debate shows are good and lively. She sure is young, well ,the average age here is 35. The only thing I actually got to say to Dana, that first day, was....... "you know there are some pirates aboard, " AND that got her interest.......but her Escorts pulled her along. She does have healthy eating habits.
This is the best hospital food any of us has ever enjoyed, plus chief Serge serves many Africa and local regional dishes on "Tuesday Africa " meal day.
Ship food here is quality, lots of local sourced fresh stuff, good nutrition,very accessible, well, too accessible for this galley rat! I must be burning lots of calories, certainly feeling that I need to eat more than my norm.
One gal from HR dept. was talking recently, she described herself as an almost middle aged adult sleeping in a child's bed! Ship bunks are tiny! And she added, .....While eating lots of pnb and jelly sandwiches for breakfast! Compliments of many little ones the galley serves, long term familiars living aboard.
The live-aboard kids celebrated BD last week of Dr Seuss!
Community of 400, and nothing is private.....
The Steward left a note on my dorm door while I was out. Several passerbyers spotted me at work and told me Blood Bank was STILL looking for me.
And, the head receptionist told me, as I walked past her desk, that my lost socks were now in the L & F box, midships.
The normal and the unreal abode here!
Have your heart broken, and then have your heart warmed. Good sustenance for the Soul....happy trails, love Cathy
Friday, my next day off, will join a trip,initiated by other crewmate......about a dozen of us, hired car, with driver as guide I think. To some historic cultural areas, slave trade history, drum making community, and ????
Last week I joined up with a doctor from the UK, last week she needed volunteers for her education class, teaching trauma care to the local doctors. They certainly need it , they seemed to know that they lack it. Very eager students. That was fun , and watching this doctor in education-mode-action, well, that was inspiring. Plus a tour afterwards of the local ER, attached to the teaching university. It was very basic. All staff seemed to be hard working. Family members sleeping two to a bed,on an extra hospital bed. Or on the floor, under the bed of their family/patient.
It Looked better staffed and supplied than most I have seen in the third world. Family members DO have to bring patient food, as well as purchase any needed supplies: meds, catheters ,IV, chest tubes, bulb syringes, syringes.
On our ship we host dignitaries occasionally, Embassy staff from Norway last week, from Germany tomorrow, the Ambassador to the UN.
The Benin First Lady came recently, along with the widow of Nelson Mandela, his second wife, not the infamous first wife.
Graca Machel is an inspiring advocate for women's and children social justice issues, still very active, lives in Mozambique.
The only celebrity that I have actually been on duty to greet was Dana. ANd I have not seen any of her current pieces. I like her, and I hear her debate shows are good and lively. She sure is young, well ,the average age here is 35. The only thing I actually got to say to Dana, that first day, was....... "you know there are some pirates aboard, " AND that got her interest.......but her Escorts pulled her along. She does have healthy eating habits.
This is the best hospital food any of us has ever enjoyed, plus chief Serge serves many Africa and local regional dishes on "Tuesday Africa " meal day.
Ship food here is quality, lots of local sourced fresh stuff, good nutrition,very accessible, well, too accessible for this galley rat! I must be burning lots of calories, certainly feeling that I need to eat more than my norm.
One gal from HR dept. was talking recently, she described herself as an almost middle aged adult sleeping in a child's bed! Ship bunks are tiny! And she added, .....While eating lots of pnb and jelly sandwiches for breakfast! Compliments of many little ones the galley serves, long term familiars living aboard.
The live-aboard kids celebrated BD last week of Dr Seuss!
Community of 400, and nothing is private.....
The Steward left a note on my dorm door while I was out. Several passerbyers spotted me at work and told me Blood Bank was STILL looking for me.
And, the head receptionist told me, as I walked past her desk, that my lost socks were now in the L & F box, midships.
The normal and the unreal abode here!
Have your heart broken, and then have your heart warmed. Good sustenance for the Soul....happy trails, love Cathy
6/March
Sunday services were in the admit room, near the wards. My oh my, Now that was amazing! The devotions are almost all song, drumming, dance, in English and Fom, one of the the major languages/dialect. Patients, visitors, family, staff. The part that brought my to tears was to see youngsters and adults wobbling in, carried in, w/chaired in....with hospital gear attachments, of course, Nasal/g tubes. IV cannulas. chest tubes, catheter bags, abdominal tubes to portable drainage. The fresh max/fax plastic cases, sutures everywhere on face, neck, head. These lucky ones now with a chance to look more normal. Some patients were sitting, some dancing a bit. My galley team mates that were on duty came and really danced. Ah, this African dance style! What an inspiring way to start my Sunday off.
But, today, during my afternoon break on deck 7, this was even more heart warming and heart breaking. Each afternoon is "fresh air" time for those that can leave their ward bed.
I spent time with two youngsters. Esther and Beatrice.
Esther vibrant and bright, both hands in major post op ortho contraptions for correction of her webbed fingers. One little foot also had toes all still webbed together. Her mother and "junior" sister were with her,
Beatrice, a teenager sitting quietly, with just her nurse, looking awkward and probably with pain. Her face very very distorted, swollen, misshapen, sutures everywhere, It did not actually look like a face, at least not yet. I sat next to her, she is unable to speak for a while, due to this and that. I tried to say hello in French and Fom.....awkward no response, her nurse finally laughed and said, use English! I did, and.... her smile! To see a glimpse of who is inside....
Both these girls are being so brave, with so much hard work/rehab in front of them, plus more surgeries.. ..I just had to go sit and be alone after a while, to compose myself. Our lives are so different..... this is all an understatement, of course.
3/March My first day off, first day to wake without alarm.I actually went outside,,first time out, chose deck 7 for fresh air and swim, small pool with tiny waves and wobbles, as the ship rocks and rolls,while tied to dock.
Took morning tour yesterday to the OP ophthalmology cataract clinic. Each Friday is "vision celebration" . Traditional African dancing, music, drumming, by local staff, joined by the 30 patients plus family members, all being sent home today after their one week stay. One lady stood to say, via translator,thank you for giving her sight to see her children. One 8yr girl in a pretty pink dress was all a'glow, a new world....her cataracts probably due to maternal/in-utero exposure to measles. Tears all around. Me too! All wearing sun glasses for post op protection, some now with vision, some only ability to see light. Most will have blurry vision for a while, their cataracts were thick,long term, time will tell.
Afternoon I joined the hospital tour: screening tent, admissions, OR, PACU, the wards. There is one mattress under each patient bed for family, this is norm in many parts of third world, family member has no place to go in the city, they stay with patient in hospital , are not given mattress, They simply sleep on floor under hospital cot. They actually are important to have near for education needs.
Out patient post op rehab tent tour was today as well. There were two patients when I visited that tent, post max-fax procedures, faces/necks still need another surgery or two, later this year. Neuro fibromas, huge goiters, and ...? Risk factors varied. The blood vessel supply to these overgrowths require careful consideration of excess bleeding during and after surgery. Blood bank supplies come from in-house only, we all sign up to donate, if possible.
The typical description of any procedure here, in operatimg theatre or dental clinic. is, "exaggerated findings".
28/Feb
Aboard the good ship Africa Mercy
Lounging in the "town square", the upstairs portion of midships, big comfy sitting parlor on deck 7. Collapsed is more like it, as I am bone tried, and this is only my second day here , and my first full day of working my14 hour shift. Two long breaks in the middle, so only a 9 hour work day. Did I really volunteer for this? I have never worked full time in my entire life, let alone a 45 hour work week. And so many steep stairs, almost like ladders. My knees back feet are hurting, that is not my norm.....And I know it will be ok,once I get caught up on sleep and learn my way around.
This ship is like
a small city, starting with an academy, for kids living here long term with their parents, and including this amazing 100 bed hospital, So I can't complain, not after hearing a few stories.
Today I shared a quick break with a dietitian, she has been working with one patient for four
months. This young woman neended extensive care for malnutrition before her surgery for removal of a 3 kg facial tumor. She weighed only 39 kg. Had lived a very isolated life, due to embarrassment, plus difficulty of eating and drinking. Her mouth was on the bottom of this tumor, at the level of her shoulder.
Stick skinny. Now up to normal weight of 60 kg. Her father has been her with her for entire time of pre op and post op care, very protective of her, as he apparently has been since she developed this as a child. Time to be going home, but she does not want to go, has been pampered here with kind people , plentiful food, running water, electric lights. She is now behaving "feisty", always a good sign. Her face is still a long way from normal, but at least she can now eat and drink and look more normal, perhaps look ahead to a normal village life.
Another story, an ENT surgeon from SF , ( we were on same arrival flight ) shared with me her anxiety for her first surgery here, never removed a huge tumor with such overgrown blood vessels. Such exaggerated risk of airway obstruction, bleeding out. All went well, a long surgery, but a good team. She was thumbs up and all smiles as she arrived for her late lunch.
Feels good to provide some sustenance for these teams, makes up for feeling like a klutz, on the bread slicer , the dumb waiter ,the coffee machine, a mess with the industrial size mustard dispenser.
This ship use to be a Norwegian ferry, much is written in a language I have yet to grasp. Day shift manager is a retired cop from Iowa. My French team leader has a charming way of calling out to me, sing song fashion, " Cati, no, not that, you must push the other, how do you say it, the little button?" !!!! Another team mate is a guy from the Congo, he sings while he washes dishes, so, all, is indeed well,
Monday started with a reminder to be kind, gracious, do your best, take a time out if needed.
Then new crew orientation , how and where to muster, security issues for shore leave, infection control, don't be worried about acid bugs, and do worry about rip tides and fresh lake water (schistosomiasis). Then a Brazialian deck officer reviewed International Maritime rules, MOB drills, watertight doors,
Gurkaha nationals from Nepal are our ship yard security.
That is all for now, time to hit my bunk, 5 am come early, I have 5 cool young nurses for room mates. So getting my fill of hospital details.....
Two kids were in rehab tent for their one hour session, practicing jumping games, their ortho surgeries were 4 months ago. One with bow legs repair, the other with club foot repair. Pre-op photo was on each chart, wow, what a difference, now can play almost like normal kids. Bow legs (sometimes caused by rickets, vit C deficiency) that are above knee can not be helped, but, if their deformity is below knee, can sometimes be surgically repaired, depends on cause, as well as age of kid.
Many many complex hospital details have to all come together. All coordinated with host country. From up-country screening, arranging transport for patient and one family member, medical work up (labs, imagining, scanning, start treatment for hi BP ,etc) pre op education, All done several months before surgery. Then repeat all a few days before surgery.
So much more to say, ....it is now the next day,and I am going to public craft market! Hospital shuttle makes the rounds of popular spots on weekends, Taxis are "zemis"(scooters), very few obvious buses. Ship tells us to not use the zemi, but if we do, they give us a helmet to borrow from reception desk! Yes, I am having fun! And there is an interesting story around each and every corner......Love Cathy
25/Feb/17
Benin, West Africa, been waiting two years for this opportunity! My adventure will be aboard a big floating hospital, focusing on elective surgeries. I no longer have an active RN license, so I can not volunteer in the hospital, but instead, I will be part of the ship's crew, Dinning Room staff, with volunteers from other countries. And that is all I know. Except, I will be sleeping in an 8 bed dorm....now there is the challenge!
Recently read a chapter in one of my favorite non fiction books, by one of my favorite authors, Barbara Kingsolver:
"High Tide in Tucson"
My first literary look at Benin…The Vibrations of Djoogbe….check it out sometime.
