January/February 2018
Six weeks, 6 towns, plenty of bus rides!
Zihuatenejo
My first week in z town, Jan 4, arrived from SEATAC with one of my island Hardy Hiker buddies, and with no sleep the night before. And with a sinus infection!
Was not in top form all that week, plus not good company for my travel companion, and/or we are not compatible travel companions. But that could have been ok for one week only,no big deal, but…and i am not sure what went wrong.
We did have a few good days together, but ……..all mostly resolved as she departed for home.
We did take a cool little bus ride to the laguna, outside of town, including a (collectivo) truck ride the last little distance. Hung out at a lake side cafe, visited the estuary, went bird watching, after renting funky kayaks. Twas' a fun day together!
Middle two days of our week tougher, i stayed mostly in hotel room, did not even have energy to walk down steep steps to ocean for a swim, which i knew would make me feel better…but it was too hot outside, and I had no energy. I kept telling her I am sorry, but i simply feel pathetic...
When I got worse, day # 3, I felt disoriented, and was very agitated because i did not yet have plans of how I was going to get north….was suppose to depart same day as my companion, to meet Pam in Melaque.
Anyway, travel plans for my coming departure, for me,where uncharacteristically very hard to make….
I needed to get a long distance north. Tried to go to travel agency to book a flight, but was unsuccessful.
First class long distance buses left at ungodly hour, and it was a 10-12 hr journey. YUK!
So planned to make it in two days on bus….guessed I could depart Z town mid morning, take second class bus to Colima, over night in that small city, BUT I could not find out where I would stay in that town…not in my LP guide book, internet hard to use. Felt uneasy, Colima is a hot spot of big time narco problems in that area…
Eventually I dragged myself out of hotel room, and took a bus to the main bus terminal, on edge of town, and got the exact bus info i needed.
But, I was still unsure of where to sleep that night, in midst of my two bus days, was a bit worried about all that, but decided, to, well, NOT WORRY!.
In the end, that travel day was easy, if long, and easy to find business style modern hotel very near bus station, in Colima, and easy to carry on that next am, 2 hrs more to big city of Manzanillo, then transfer to local bus for last hour to Melaque.
But it was an awkward week with my buddy….
We both did enjoy our hotel, recommended by Orcas Heather and Greg….Casa Adrianna
But hard on the knees, the hotel was 4 stories, sharp and steep, plus way up on a steep hillside over ocean. Town was 10 min walk away….charming, flat, cobblestoned, quaint and many pedestrian only streets.
Easy place below our hotel to rent kayaks, snorkel gear, stand up paddle boards, hobbie cats…but i had no energy to do that, in the heat of the day with my sinus infection..… except for our last late afternoon/early evening…when i was better and made plans, for us, but my buddy weirdly declined…so i went out on a sunset sail alone, it was great, had a groovy gal guide!
Actually last two days were spent mostly alone, for both of us…quite a shame.
We departed and said good by, ok, all was a bit awkward…but oh well….
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______________________________********* Monday, 30/January/2018
Overall, I am enjoying my traveling life here , ambling along the pacific coast , via bus, stopping here and there, familiar bays, while exploring new beach towns. Just spent one week in Melaque, my fav town.
Punta Purela: arrived Monday afternoon, will spend two nights here, then on to PV.
It is a dusty friendly beach town , but had originally gotten off at wrong bus stop today, Chamela town, rather than crossroads to Bahia de Chamela on highway), long ways from what i wanted….(should have jumped right back on that bus, before it drove off so quickly, after driver and passengers reassured me , yes, there are hotels at beach, one mile down that dirt track…turns out that is only a private resort.
oops, a few minor challenges …..
This is what happens when i did not ask the right questions of right person, without enough info ahead of time, (not much in my LP guide book) I had been looking for a memory from an anchorage during my Travels with Gertrud, 12 years ago along this coast.
All those challenges had happy endings, with help of shop keeper and taxi driver.
When i got to town, I had my fav caffeine drink, coca cola con hielo y limons. I left my back pack there while looking for lodgings. Had a lovely fish dinner there later .
One morning, in Melaque this past week, walking along with my morning job of beach trash pick up, I found 4 little tortugas, hatchlings, just escaped from their safe-holding pen, doing what comes naturally, but at a dangerous time... day light.
Shepherded them the last 200 yards to surf line, past people dogs pelicans , into the surf, they tumbled around , then disappeared out to sea. They had breached their nursery barriers.
Ridley’s, and I am told that only 4 out of 1000 reach maturity, (if I understood the words of the professor whose project this is) so many dangerous obstacles, predators and human caused problems.
This professor,Antonio, spoke with me about excess plastics in our world, and especially here in Mexico. He told me he also carries around his own plate…a soul brother!
Released dozens more hatchlings, that night , only a few hours old, with the safety of darkness, with the local turtle sanctuary staff from university of Guadalajara. And that was not an advertised sanctuary, ''twas a pleasant surprise in my neighborhood that morning!
Quite amazing!
The eggs are brought to this sanctuary by volunteers, from various beaches, to this safer place to be monitored, plus incubated in the warm sand.
I am headed to Puerto Vallarta soon to meet (B'ham) Steve, for final two weeks in that part of the coast. Not sure about bus schedules, nor how to get back the 3 km to cross roads….
Have enjoyed my two weeks solo...after two fun weeks with girlfriends, paddling, hammocking, bird watching , biking, dancing, swimming each day .
My long swims in Melaque bay, after two weeks there, got a bit longer, eventually less worry about los tiburones y crocodiles. Sharks have been so heavily decimated, for their fins for the Asian market, not many left.
My favorite activity this past month has been watching the fisherman standing in surf, tossing their nets, for the abundant bait fish. Actually, I enjoy the hundreds of pelicans, doing same , but more clown like, sometimes ballet like, however. Nothing like swimming out there…with dozens of feather bombs drive down towards one’s head….the pelicans….very loud big lumps dropping swiftly into the water.
Besides those abundant pelicans….other busy sure line fishers…. Frigates, terns, white herons.
Now staying at Hotel Posada Punta Perula, one of two hotels off beach. The other was that bright pepto bismal colored hotel, where I (luckily) gave up waiting 30 minutes for someone to show up, besides a large noisy family in one room, and a surly young man in another. But it did have a lovely inner courtyard and pool and garden.
I am so happy here with Dona Maria, at her lovely hotel, away from all ( not that town is busy or noisy). I am upstairs…..very comfy rooms with flowered verandah and sweet views of country side, the sound of surf pounding in the near distance, along with roosters, perfect.
and I am at far side, far away from noise of Maria on her mobile, TV, grandchild, all of which are actually very minimal, if loud.
This bay is 11 kms, Bahia de Chamela, flat, hard packed sand, so finally a great place for long long surf walks.
Originally could not find any signs for beach hotels, only big RV parks for gringos who stay put, all season in same spot….but while walking on beach, I did see some fancy places, couple of BnBs, and others that looks like yoga retreats, perhaps.
Will hang out at beach today, found one restaurant that looks like it could be a good home base, has hammocks and kayaks to use!
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Melaque....more.....two weeks in this great town…..first week with Pam and Patti, then next week alone.
Well, I did not expect this Melaque to be such a hopping/happening place !
The Canadian retired set has invaded, in past years, and many bring along their dancing shoes, literally…separately carried, and brought ONLY for the dance floor!
Plus some PNW type hipsters bring their cow girl boots, wish I and mine!
gosh, I am dancing my feet away each night!
Glad, I did not sign up for volunteer work at the rehab center with that muy guapo doctor…I need to save my energy for dancing!
Anyone that loves to dance should be here….from salza to cumbia, to blues, cha cha, swing and …..even disco to Dylan, with Johnny Cash tossed in the middle for some good line dancing!
Next time I must bring along my short and sassy skirts, as well as my little summer frocks, and I won’t forget to pack dancing shoes!
The dance music is sometimes piped-in, back ground, with profession singers crooning…sort of like 'professional karaoke' ??!! Lots of sing alongs included.
Also many venues have live RocknRoll, Blues, or hip hop dance music.
There are some very hot Canadian dance couples out there, several who are teachers of swing , tango, or ballroom, from all over the place.
Also lots of musicians here do the usual type of jam music nights, also great fun.
Rich, from Eugene was there, Pam’s well known (in Eugene) music buddy.
He is making sure all enjoy the music and the music makers!
Mostly my two weeks in Melaque were mellow…. bike riding ($25US/wk) , enjoying the ambience and amigos at Hotel Vista Hermosa, hanging out with my local friend, Margarita (one of the shop keepers)visits to the laguna in Barra de Navidad, enjoying Wednesday Farmer’s Market.
I inquired about getting a room reservation for next winter, but all of the good rooms are already taken!
In the middle of my two weeks here, Pam departed for home (she had had 6 wks prior in San Miguel de Allende, with Patti).
Then Patti and I took off for Playa Tenecatita and the village of Los Rebolitos, me for three nights, Patti for 2-3 weeks, at home of Miss Cat, originally from Chec Republic, now an expat here, she has a lovely guest house.
We had funky bikes to ride the 1.5 km dry road to that wonderful beach.
But over all, not enough for me here, (I really am a townie!) especially with the beach so far away, relatively speaking.
Biked around for bird watching in the lagunas, large white egrets, pink flamingos, large spoon bills,
Got introduced to Pam’s buddies from the comune in Deadwood, Tchanan and others, some here here for a few weeks, some for longer, all living on the homestead of a dynamic gal named ……who has been here about 30 years….
While at Hotel V H..there were two great music events
the first was organized by the hotel owners, a yearly event, they put on a big party for staff and families, and for guts and their friends…food and drink and music and dancing….
The there was organized by that old irish gent, Patrick (Patricio) it was a farewell party for his buddy musician John, and John is central to msuci scene e in that city, so her organizes lots of jams….and this was a great jam, on our hotel patio….long into the night, eel attended, by many amusicains, bt there was no percussion…so I st in on pots and pawn! A blast!
Patrick (80 plus, post cva) is always in room # 1 apparently,,,,and when his buddy John departed, that left Patrick without any swimming assist…so I stepped up….and for my last two days in Melaque, I escorted Patrick into the water, wearing a life jacket, so he cold pleasantly bob around out there, relaxing, past the waves…..not too difficult, to get him out there!
And, Patrick was a big flirt, sweet old guy, but no thank you, I had to tell him, not interested…
Marguarita (shopkeeper) was disappointed when I had to leave, it left her without a single girlfriend to share meals and dancing. Once she and I met, she wanted to spend each day with me, fix me all my meals, luckily she worked most every day, so i still had time to myself….but i reminded myself , to not be so friendly in future…..as it was hard to say NO to her and to Patrick for my time….i like to be alone sometime, wanted my hammock and my book !
gracias adios!
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****** 12/Feb/18
Steve caught up with me last week at our hotel in Puerto Vallarta, "Cuartro Vientos", in old town, lovely hotel and neighborhood. His first time to Mexico and (mostly) loving it!
He had made a “friend” at airport, a taxi driver with a sort of scam…and Steve said yes, for a “free” taxi to our hotel, as well as “free" taxi to airport later, when we go home.
ummm…..well,opps, geez…..anyway, airport is only short distance from city, usual price is 100 pesos (5 us$)!
So, after handing over some green backs (!!) he made an agreement for a time share intro (!!) , next am, “free” breakfast, listen to sales pitch…what the heck, we went, it was very very fancy fancy, actually beautiful, but ….so, very interesting 4 hrs…actually a waste of time, in retrospect (would rather have gone to the botanical gardens) but, all was ok.
We said no to their "amazing” offers (had said same at the start!) Steve eventually got his 20 $US cash back, without either of us depositing several K $.
Anyway our two days in city were spent enjoying the huge colorful lively malecon, (seawall, boardwalk) and cobblestones neighborhoods, great food, shops, museums, gardens, steep stoned walkways.
Eventually caught a bus north 1 easy hour, to La Cruz de H, Nayurit state, groovy cruisers paradise. Jon and I had been here at anchor for two nights, long ago, and I always wanted to return.
So, now we have come to this town to stay 3-4 nights, instead, we stayed 7! Many cruisers/visitors arrive and never depart.
Sailing , swimming, surfing, hammocking, napping, reading, birding (flamingos, egrets and spoon bills, ), evening beach walks, plus worrying about/caring for one horse in the neighborhood....
One photo below is spinnaker sail used by Alaskan couple for our afternoon/sunset/evening cruise around Banderas Bay, along with other budget minded hostel folks. Great fun, if a bit helter skelter, surprised we did not loose anyone overboard.
Many humpback whales are here in the winter time, easy viewing, as they enjoy the warm waters for birthing and mating, in this huge Bahia de Banderas area, as well as find safety from the Orca whales who prefer to eat young humpies.
When we arrived in La Cruz, I tried the old traveler’s way of walking/looking around, but could not find a hotel, in this small town. My Lonely Planet guide book, or the piece of it remaining in my hand, did not have map. Umm, seems like modern life has changed, imagine that! Apparently one needs an active internet connection to have a map in hand on arrival. Or at least remember to load it before departing last destination with internet.
Eventually found the Octopus Garden, hostel, got dorm bed, delightful place, gardens, roof top palapa bar, music, yoga, English classes for locals, om sessions, dancing, international characters, plus a kitty cuddle buddy ….but mixed dorm not my cup of chai anymore!
Moved to the Agave Azul guest house for our next few nights. Even with loud evening music at Anna Banana’s…we loved it.
Looks like the mad-hatter put the "agave azul" together…actually it is two dynamic German gals. Themed sort of like Alice in Wonderland goes south and lets all hang loose, over the top creativity, goofiness, playfulness. Plus the simple little comforts that western inn keepers add, but the budget local hotels don’t….ie….bathroom floor mat, hangers, hooks, chair, table for your stuff, reading light, lots of windows for air flow, big shared kitchen.
Sunset time was swinging on the upper level verandah, watching iguanas feed in the huge tropical tree canopy across street. Photo of one, in that tree shot below.
These groovy gals from Germany run this guest house and a long cast of foreign regulars are found here…..like all the towns where I visited these past 5 weeks. Czech Republic, Poland, Argentina, Oz, Holland, France. Canadian visitors seem predominant here on Pacific coast of Mexico.
Yesterday afternoon we joined a community event, at the La Cruz yacht club, “women who sail”, three guest speakers. One was Jeanne Socrates, a 73 y.o. Brit, has soloed the globe twice and eventually headed out for another rounding of the Cape, after one knock down, and a fall from her mast, she spent a year here recuperating. My oh my, true grit.
One story teller was the usual ….. ready to quite during severe frightening storms, saying "no more, I am out of here as soon as we get to shore!”, then eventually valiently happily carrying on!
Another women told of rescuing her husband when he went over board….and kids from cursing families shared stories of the traveling life, too many hellos and goodbyes, sharing tiny tiny spaces with sibs, learning, growing, sharing, loving it all, important crew members at very young age.
Photo below, that young man with those gorgeous eyes, is from Russia, he shared our mixed dorm. Tattoo is of his “mama”, as he sweetly pats his chest, over his heart. This was only communicating any of us deciphered!
Lots of beach time, quiet empty beach choices always abound. Then there are “Mexican” beaches, crowded on weekends, lively & colorful, rent a table and umbrella, and watch (food, drinks, crafts, souvenirs) the world flow to and around you...
Will take short bus ride back to PV this am, then another bus an hour south to water shuttle for jump off point for Yelapa!
One more night in Vallarta, to enjoy Mardi Gras, then soon, flight home…
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************** PS
15/February/2018
Now at home sweet home, snowed in...!!!
Our two nights in Yelapa were also easy and fun. Except for all that walking, (soft sand, shoes off and on over the river crossing) then the town.... little narrow tunnels and steep cobblestones to get to the "other side". Our little white house rental, from the Gonzales Brothers, real estate magistrates...was on the quiet dark side...well,most of that little bay community is quiet and dark.
We did not do much, swam several times from the old dock, below our casita, to that wonderful beach. Sat outside and read a lot, no internet connection, perfect.
The morning of our departure, got up early for water taxi back to mainland, then waited an hour, for a bus that was going south, back towards Melaque, took 2 plus hours to ride the bus (I had thought it would be only an hour) and took Steve to Punta Perula, Bahia Chamela, were I said we would be at my "princess beach", perfect for long walks, only a few beach businesses, and our hotel, same as I had before, quiet and dark and private. He also loved it all. But I could tell he was ready for home.
Three days later, bus ride back to PV, after waiting on side of very quiet road side area, with school kids.....bus took 2.5 hrs back to city, checked into our same hotel, Quartro Vientos".
Steve a bit more irritable by then, probably should have taken a taxi back to hotel.... but ok after a cold plunge in our hotel pool. Out for cold drink/hammock swing to the beer garden (cat) park. Valentines dinner somewhere....he went back to hotel, and i wandered a bit more on the Malecon, I wanted to see the Mardi Gras parade, but it was late staring, and only so-so...still, fun to be out walking...
Steve very irritable when I got home, too much noise, too many V Day parties, even in our little hotel. But I gave him a Vit V (thanks mom) and he mellowed and feel asleep when the music and noise and lights were all out by 11 pm.
Easy morning and afternoon in the city....taxi to airport for 3 pm flight, then long afternoon and evening to Seatac. Overnight in the city at the Green tortoise hostel (private room) then train home in am.
I had my own (travel/transport) melt down, departing from Seattle, train was late, so that meant I would miss my one bus/ferry option for getting home early in day, rather than 5 pm!
In the end, I called for a taxi (I wanted to be HOME), happy to find out is was only $50, not $90!
And, all well at home with Oscar and Felix and Ziggy, and House sitter Kathryn Osgood...
